A Day in Town: Nangang, Neihu, Xinyi, Songshan (Taipei City)

I just completed my twenty-second trip under "A Day in Town," my multi-year backpacking plan of spending a day in each of the approximately 350 townships in Taiwan. My destination this time was Taipei City, the capital and a special municipality of Taiwan, and an enclave of the municipality of New Taipei City that I visited last month. With a population of about two and a half million, Taipei City administers 12 districts. Since I had visited four of the 12 districts during my last trip here a year ago, this time I visited another four: Nangang, Neihu, Xinyi, and Songshan, which collectively occupy the central-eastern part of the city. Interestingly, these areas can be identified on The Map of Tamsui and Surrounding Villages, Including the Island of Keelung (Heping Island), a map created in 1654 by the Dutch and the earliest reliable map about Taipei area ever created.

 

I spent my first day in Nangang District, the seat of the Academia Sinica, Taipei World Trade Center Nangang Exhibition Hall, Nangang Software Park (NKSP), and Nangang Station, which is among the three major transportation centers in the Taipei-Keelung Metropolitan area, alongside Taipei Main Station and Banqiao Station. I began by taking the MRT to Nangang Software Park, and explored on foot. Just a 10-minute walk to the east is the Nangang Bridge that crosses the Dakeng River, a branch of Keelung River and part of the natural borders of Taipei City (Nangang District) and New Taipei City (Xizhi District). While the overall landscape of the software park was impressive, I was particularly amazed by an iconic public artwork, featuring two giant hands pointing to heaven and earth respectively, with their fingertips touching each other, symbolizing the connection between heaven and earth (man), and the infinite potential in between.

About two hours into my exploration, I arrived at Dr. Hu Shih's Park, the resting place of Hu Shih (1891 – 1962), a Chinese academic, writer, diplomat, politician, and president of Academia Sinica. I continued hiking westward, and reached Nangang Park about an hour later, where a pair of stone lions caught my eye. Another hour had passed and I arrived at Houshanpi MRT Station, where I boarded the MRT to downtown Taipei to check into my hostel. On this day, I visited 16 of the 20 villages administered by Nangang District.

On the second day, I visited Neihu, a neighboring district of Nangang to the north that has experienced huge economic growth since the construction of the Neihu Technology Park and openings of hypermarkets including Costco, RT Mart, Carrefour, and B&Q after the 1990s. I started by taking the MRT to Donghu, a metro station immediately north of Keelung River. From there, I hiked across the district. 15 minutes later, I arrived at Taipei Animal Shelter, previously the site of the notorious Neihu Garbage Mountain that showcases the darkest days of environmentalism in Taipei City, with the mass of dumped garbage growing to an incredible height of 60 meters. Two hours into my exploration, I reached National Defense Medical University, a military medical school responsible for the training of military doctors, nurses, and other medical personnel. Established in Tianjin, China in 1902 and moved to Taiwan in 1949, the institution is recognized as the first military academy in Chinese history.

I continued hiking along Jinhu Road. About half an hour later, I arrived at the American Institute in Taiwan, the de facto embassy of the United States of America in Taiwan. Unveiled in 2018, the magnificent AIT new complex represents "the United States' brick-and-mortar commitment to Taiwan". Later, I passed by the renowned Neihu Technology Park, before ending my itinerary of the day at Gangqian MRT Station. Along the way, I visited 20 of the 39 villages administered by Neihu District.

I spent my third day in Xinyi, a district with countless places named after Songshan, its neighboring district from which Xinyi was separated and became a new district of Taipei City in 1990. The youngest district of the city, Xinyi District is the seat of Taipei City government and home to Taipei 101, Taipei International Convention Center, Taipei World Trade Center, Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and various shopping malls and entertainment venues. I began by taking the MRT to Houshanpi, the northeastern corner of Xinyi District bordering Nangang and Songshan. From there, I walked through the district, visiting various scenic spots, including Yongchun Wetland Park and the Four Four South Village. The latter was previously a residential area for the military personnel of the 44th Arsenal of the Combined Logistics Command and their dependents; now it has been renovated and is a major tourist attraction in Taipei City. Throughout my day in the district, I could see the landmark - Taipei 101 - all the time.

About three hours later, I arrived at the area that borders Daan District to the west and was traditionally called Liuzhanli. I turned north and continued hiking toward Wufenpu, a nationally renowned wholesale garment market, and ended my itinerary at Houshanpi, the same MRT station where I began my day in Xinyi. Throughout the day, I visited 34 of the 41 villages administered by Xinyi District.

On the fourth day, I visited Songshan, the most populous township (equivalent of a district) in Taiwan before its southern half was ceded to create a new district of Taipei City, Xinyi District, in 1991. In line with the Keelung River straightening efforts, district borders of Taipei City were further altered, with certain areas reassigned from Songshan to its neighboring districts, Neihu and Zhongshan, in 1993. Now Songshan District has a population of just over 180,000, ranked 36th in Taiwan and 8th in Taipei City. I began by taking a bus to Dun Hua Junior High School, which is located in the southeastern corner of Songshan. From there, I explored the district on foot and immersed myself in the serenity of a few quiet residential areas along the way.

About two hours later, I reached Ciyou Temple, a Mazu Temple built in 1757 and one of major religious centers in Taipei City. It is also an iconic landmark, standing next to Raohe Street Night Market, a major tourist attraction in Taipei City. I continued exploring many well-established and quiet neighborhoods on my way to Zhongshan Junior High School MRT Station, where I ended my itinerary in Songshan. Throughout the day, I visited 25 of the 33 villages administered by the district.

Concluding my day in Songshan District, I also completed my first backpacking in 2026. As usual, this trip was one of both discovery and nostalgia. It was nostalgic because I spent a good part of my life in Taipei City — 30 years to be exact, schooling and working combined. In particular, I became sentimental when standing in front of a 42-year-old office building in Songshan. The building has a forward-looking name: 21st Century Building, where I worked for my first full-time job, exactly 42 years ago, too, after being discharged from the military service. What a moment — the building and I were both brand new back then! Standing there, I could even see my younger self commuting here by riding an old Vespa scooter, just like this antique scooter placed at my hostel as part of its interior decor. I felt grateful that both the building and I are still around now, and hope that we will both live healthily through the 21st century, as its name suggested.